This article outlines my method for starting seeds destined for organic living soil. There are 100 perfectly fine ways to go about it, and mine is only one example. However, this method is just about as simple as you can get and avoids the use of tweezers and fine motor control that I have lost due to my condition. I’ll start by outlining the schedule, and then we’ll dig into each step along the way.
- Day 0: Gather materials
- Day 1: Prep soil and freeze seeds
- Day 2: Soak seeds
- Day 3: Plant the seeds
- Days 4-10: Wait and hydrate
- Days 11-14: Harden off and lower humidity
- Days 15+: Entering the vegetative state
Day 0: Gather materials
You will need a small container to use to start the seeds. A 9oz clear plastic cup is perfect for me as they are short and don’t topple as easy as a larger plastic cup. The clear plastic also allows me to see the roots which enables me to transplant at the perfect time. Just nip the bottom edges with scissors to create drain holes.
Your choice of soil should include a variety that doesn’t include a lot of nutrients. You may use a nutrient filled soil as long as it is established living soil. Those microbes will help the young plant and it will tolerate rich soil with that help. I prefer to set aside a small amount of my DIY [dry] soil mix before I mix in the nutrients.
- Seeds
- 9oz clear plastic cups
- Scissors
- Distilled [pure] water
- Small spray bottle
- Soil
- Seed starting dome
- Labels or placards
- Sanitary gloves
- Mycos (or other source of mycorrhizal fungi)
Day 1: Prep soil and freeze seeds
Optionally, you may elect to freeze seeds for 12 hours the day before germination. Simply put the seeds in the freezer overnight, then take the seeds back out in the morning. This process will striate the seeds, creating tiny cracks in the husk. This step is only needed if seeds are expected to be stubborn.
You will also prep your soil this day. The important part here is that the soil is loaded into the starter cups and very thoroughly moistened. Overly moistened is fine because we’ll let the soil sit for a day before applying seeds and the seeds will need lots of moisture to germinate. It will be almost a week before you water this soil again and, if you’re using a quality soil, it will be impossible to over-water unless you allow the cup to sit in standing water.
Day 2: Soak seeds
Pour a couple ounces of distilled water into cups, one for each cultivarA cultivated variety, often mistakenly called a 'strain.' More you decide to grow. There only need be enough water to cover the seeds. 12 hours of soaking should be sufficient. Viable seeds will germinate (husks crack and root emerges) quickly, and we want to have the seeds in soil before that happens.
Optionally, you may add a splash of hydrogen peroxide to your water. It will quickly break down into it’s constituent parts of water and oxygen. Before it breaks down it will help decontaminate the seeds of any potential bacteria or virus present.
Step 3: Plant the seeds
Place your prepared soil and containers into the seed starter dome. Don your sanitary gloves and carefully transfer the soaked seeds from the cups of water to the center of the prepared soil. If seeds are already germinating be very careful not to damage the very fragile root that is emerging. After placing the seed, sprinkle just a little of mycorhizzal fungi powder (spores) directly on the seed.
Gently cover with a very thin layer of soil and use your spray bottle to thoroughly moisten the top layer of soil with pure water. Moisture retention is the purpose of this thin soil covering and will allow the seed/root to be surrounded by moist soil. Should that emerging root dry, it will die. Spray the inside of the dome and all parts generously and seal the dome, ensuring that the vents are closed. This will raise the humidity inside the dome. 85%+ humidity is desired in this stage.
Don’t forget to label the containers as you go so you don’t mix up your seeds. Also, the ideal germination temperature is somewhere in the high 70’s. If your temperatures seem cool, you might look into getting a seedling heat mat. It helps.
Days 4-10: Wait and Hydrate
On a daily basis, moisten the inside of the dome and surface of the cups of soil religiously with your spray bottle and pure water. If you are using viable seeds they will start ‘popping’ up pretty quickly. Because we use loose soil you should not need to manipulate these fragile seedlings what-so-ever.
Some dim lighting overhead will be useful at this point so that the seedling knows which way is up. Apart from that, avoid using very intense light as it will destroy a young seedling.
As seedlings emerge, you will notice the seed husks still holding on to the first set of leaves. Continue to spray with pure water to keep the husks pliable and the seedling will shed it eventually. Resist the urge to fiddle with it unless the husk has clamped both leaves together (which prevents photosynthesis). 90% of the time, if you keep the husk moist, the seedling will free itself within a couple days. Don’t worry, the seed comes packed with enough energy to get through several days without starting photosynthesis.
You may see seedlings fall over or do other strange things during this stage. Again, resist the urge to fiddle with them. They will surprise you over the first few days and will stand up straight and tall. Some won’t, but will begin life none-the-less, no matter how crooked the stem is.
Do NOT pour water into the soil at this point. That tiny bit of hydrolic pressure may completely uproot your fragile seedling. This can be a nightmare to correct and should be avoided. Hence the need to fully hydrate the soil before seeds are placed in it. Use your spray bottle for all hydration purposes.
Days 11-14: Harden off and lower humidity
This process may start before day 11. You should kick this off about 3-4 days after your first seed ‘pops’ and starts rising toward the light. Yes, I know some of your seeds haven’t germinated, but if you wait much longer you risk a bloom of fusaria, or other pathogens, which will kill your seedlings in short order. Having a second dome for hardening is handy. This will allow you to continue to keep moisture/humidity high for seeds that haven’t sprouted yet.
You may continue to spray the top of the soil in the containers daily, but cease spraying the inside of the dome. For the first day, open the dome vents 50%. On the second day open them all the way. On the third day remove the dome. Don’t be overly concerned if leaves show slight curling or other signs of stress. Whatever you do, do NOT fertilize yet.
You may soon need to start watering. Although we now want to moisture above the soil to be much less, the soil itself must be kept moist at all times. Even a few hours of overly dry soil will kill a seedling at this point.
Water from the bottom! I can’t stress this enough. Simply place your containers (they do have drain holes, right?) in a tray of shallow water and watch with amazement as the capillary action of water defies gravity as the water climbs from the tray upward into the soil. With a good soil, it is nearly impossible to over-water using this method. This method can be used throughout all phases of growth. The primary benefit at this stage is that this method does not disturb the soil, and therefore the fragile roots as well. Provided enough water, even the top of the soil in the small container will be moist within 10-15 minutes.
Days 15+: Entering the vegetative phase
You can debate when a seedling passes properly into the vegetative state. I believe this occurs as the plant sprouts its second and third lobed set of leaves. You should slowly start increasing the intensity of light now and may add some very weak fertilizer. However, its better to add no fertilizer until after the first transplant in my opinion.
Continue to keep the soil moist. The clear containers will make this obvious as moist soil will probably show some condensation on the inside of the cups. At the least you can tell what color the soil is and you should be picking up the small containers from time to time. They will be lighter when the need water. Continue to water from the bottom!
When the new roots have fully encased the soil, it is time for the first transplant. The clear containers will allow you to see clearly (pun intended) when this happens. This is also a good time to celebrate, because the most precarious time in the plants life is behind it now. We’ll cover transplanting in a future article.
I do want to stress that this is only one of many, many ways to start seeds. I’ve had 98% survival rate of seedlings and nearly the same rate of germination using this method. It is also very easy given the dexterity issues I have with my hands.
Do you have any tips for starting seeds? Please share in the comments.
Happy Harvests!
— The Lit Farmer —